From the Tanzanian border we headed directly to Nairobi or as its called these days, NaiRobbery, due to the high incidence of robberies. Hence, although we spent an enjoyable two days in the city we regularly used taxis to get around rather than walk.
From the capital we drove out to Lake Naivasha and camped on the shore behind the Hippo proof electric fence, occupying ourselves at night spotting Hippos with our head torches.
Lake Naivasha is the highest of the rift lakes at over 1800m but with an average depth of only 6m.
On the way we travelled along the rim of the Gregory Rift and past hundreds of nurseries growing flowers. Kenya is now the EU’s biggest source of fresh cut flower imports, principally roses and carnations. Flowers have now surpassed tourism and coffee as a major source of income. Who knew?
On the first full day at the lake we visited the Crater Lake and did a walking safari, our third one in Africa this year.
We got dropped off in the lakeside savanna which was dotted with Fever Trees and a good number of animals. During the walk we had close encounters with Giraffes, Zebra, Buffalo, Elan, Warthogs and Impala.
After the walk we climbed to the rim of Crater Lake and then had lunch on the shore while watching a troop of Black and White Colobus Monkeys lazing about.
We caught a boat to Elsamere the house of Joy and George Adamson of Born Free fame and had afternoon tea on their front lawn after a tour of the house which included an old video about Elsa the Lion.
The next two weeks we spent in Uganda and Rwanda, returning to Kenya on the 7th of September.
After spending the first night back in Kenya at Kisumu on the shores of Lake Victoria we continued along back roads enjoying some nice mountain scenery and onto a farm-stay near Nakuru, where we stayed for two nights.
An early start in our safari vehicle and we headed off to Lake Nakuru National Park which would be our last safari for this year.
Lake Nakuru NP, famous for its enormous Flamingo population has sadly declined in recent years. The roads are poor, the roadsides and creeks are covered in rubbish, the park is full of weeds, high voltage power lines run through the park and local villages/towns with high-rise apartment blocks encroach right up to park boundary.
With Kenya’s growing population, the entire park boundary is now fenced, giving the feeling of driving around a poorly kept open plain zoo and to make it worse the water level has risen in recent years and the millions of flamingo that the park is famous for have all just about left.
Despite the park not being as good as many others I’ve previously visited we still made the most of the day and saw several Rhino and three Lions. The park has hundreds of Buffalo, Impala, Warthogs and Zebra which kept us occupied for a full day.
From Nakuru we’ve driven to Nairobi, which is where I am now. After two days in the city I have to fly to Addis Ababa, the capital of Ethiopia, followed by a connecting flight to Jinka in the south of the country. Last year I flew into Addis and picked up a visa on arrival. This year we planned to drive across the border and had to get a visa prior to leaving home. Since I’ve been travelling since early April I couldn’t get a visa, so have no other option than to fly over Northern Kenya.
I’ll be spending the next month in Ethiopia and Sudan, bye for now.